{"id":3335,"date":"2021-03-10T12:11:23","date_gmt":"2021-03-10T10:11:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/?p=3335"},"modified":"2021-03-10T16:41:06","modified_gmt":"2021-03-10T14:41:06","slug":"dnesna-havana","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/2021\/03\/dnesna-havana\/","title":{"rendered":"Dne\u0161n\u00e1 Havana"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Vietor zmien u\u017e f\u00faka, nev\u00e1hajte s n\u00e1v\u0161tevou<\/p>\n<p>Hey, my friend, want cigaras? Chicas? Ot\u00e1zky, ktor\u00fdmi Havana priv\u00edta v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inu turistov, najm\u00e4 ak za\u010d\u00ednate v\u00fdlet v centre mesta. Na chrb\u00e1t mal\u00fd ruksak, na noh\u00e1ch kvalitn\u00e1 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.exisport.com\/sk\/2210-turisticka-obuv\"><strong><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">turtistick\u00e1 obuv<\/span><\/strong><\/a> a vyrazili sme. My sme spozn\u00e1vanie presl\u00e1venej metropoly za\u010dali na Havanskej univerzite v \u0161tvrti Vedado. Tu sa na n\u00e1s zdanlivo z \u010disto pohostinn\u00fdch a priate\u013esk\u00fdch pohn\u00fatok nalepil \u0161tudent Angelo s kamar\u00e1tkou. Po \u00favodn\u00fdch klasick\u00fdch ot\u00e1zkach odkia\u013e sme a \u010do rob\u00edme, pre\u0161iel plynule do role sprievodcu a za\u010dala prehliadka jednotliv\u00fdch budov univerzity a ich zauj\u00edmavost\u00ed. \u201eTu pripravoval Fidel s revolucion\u00e1rmi \u00fatok na kas\u00e1rne Moncada&#8230; Tu bola zbrojnica revolucion\u00e1rov.\u201c Pe\u0161ou prech\u00e1dzkou sme sa dostali do \u201edowntownu\u201c, ktor\u00fd zah\u0155\u0148a cel\u00fa star\u00fa centr\u00e1lnu Havanu s jej n\u00e1mestiami, promen\u00e1dami, re\u0161taur\u00e1ciami, ale aj tich\u0161iu obytn\u00fa \u010das\u0165, kde ve\u013ea turistov nestretnete. Ofici\u00e1lne sa tu toti\u017e pohyb neodpor\u00fa\u010da, najm\u00e4 nie v noci. Ako sme si v\u0161ak overili na vlastnej ko\u017ei, pokia\u013e sa spr\u00e1vate slu\u0161ne a fot\u00edte opatrne, dom\u00e1ci s\u00fa ve\u013emi priate\u013esk\u00ed. V t\u00fdchto uliciach uvid\u00edte ozajstn\u00fd \u017eivot miestnych obyvate\u013eov. Polorozpadnut\u00e9 farebn\u00e9 koloni\u00e1lne domy, star\u00e9 americk\u00e9 veter\u00e1ny, pouli\u010dn\u00e9 umenie, trhovisk\u00e1 a samotn\u00ed \u013eudia \u2013 to v\u0161etko vytv\u00e1ra fascinuj\u00faci kolorit.<\/p>\n<p>Cez otvoren\u00e9 dvere priamo z\u00a0ulice vid\u00edte do ich pr\u00edbytkov. V\u00a0\u0161ere blikaj\u00fa obrazovky o\u0161untel\u00fdch telev\u00edzorov a\u00a0na gau\u010di driemu star\u00ed, k\u00fdm mlad\u00ed s\u00fa v\u00a0pr\u00e1ci a\u00a0v\u00a0\u0161kole. Tieto ob\u00fdva\u010dky so vstupom priamo z\u00a0ulice s\u00fa \u010dasto z\u00e1rove\u0148 sp\u00e1l\u0148ami, sl\u00fa\u017eiacimi viacer\u00fdm \u010dlenom rodiny. Turistom sa v\u0161ak sna\u017e\u00ed vl\u00e1da uk\u00e1za\u0165 \u00faplne in\u00fd poh\u013ead. Ak d\u00e1te prednos\u0165 ubytovaniu v\u00a0lacnej\u0161om s\u00fakrom\u00ed, v\u00a0tzv. Casas Particulares, budete ohromen\u00ed luxusom pr\u00edbytku dom\u00e1cich. Modern\u00e1 TV, video, satelit, pekn\u00fd n\u00e1bytok a\u00a0doplnky \u2013 to v\u0161etko m\u00e1 vytv\u00e1ra\u0165 il\u00faziu blahobytn\u00e9ho \u017eivota Kub\u00e1ncov. Je to toti\u017e \u0161t\u00e1tom riaden\u00fd s\u00fakromn\u00fd biznis a\u00a0najm\u00e4 v\u00a0Havane musia by\u0165 leg\u00e1lne priv\u00e1ty reprezentat\u00edvne.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Nemaj\u00fa a\u00a0predsa maj\u00fa<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>\u010ealej od centra naraz\u00edte na polopr\u00e1zdne obchody, ktor\u00e9 hlavne t\u00fdm skor\u0161ie naroden\u00fdm pripomen\u00fa \u010dasy, ke\u010f boli aj u\u00a0n\u00e1s Rusi ve\u013ek\u00fdmi bratmi. Z\u00e1kladn\u00e9 potraviny a\u00a0potreby do dom\u00e1cnosti s\u00fa st\u00e1le na pr\u00eddelov\u00e9 l\u00edstky. Ako n\u00e1m potvrdili viacer\u00ed dom\u00e1ci, aj tu plat\u00ed star\u00e9 pravidlo \u010dias komunizmu: Kto neokr\u00e1da \u0161t\u00e1t, okr\u00e1da s\u00e1m seba. Ve\u013ea \u013eud\u00ed k\u0161eftuje na \u010diernom trhu, ktor\u00fd dop\u013a\u0148a nedostato\u010dn\u00e9 \u0161t\u00e1tne dod\u00e1vky. V\u00a0modern\u00fdch \u010dastiach mesta v\u0161ak turista prekvapene naraz\u00ed na obchodn\u00e9 centr\u00e1, kde je mo\u017en\u00e9 k\u00fapi\u0165 takmer v\u0161etko ako doma. H\u00e1\u010dik je ten, za ak\u00fa menu. Tu sa toti\u017e plat\u00ed konvertibiln\u00fdm pesom \u2013 CUC, ktor\u00e9 pre Kub\u00e1ncov znamen\u00e1 nie\u010do podobn\u00e9 ako u\u00a0n\u00e1s vo\u013eakedy tuzexov\u00e9 bony. Be\u017en\u00ed \u013eudia v\u0161ak dost\u00e1vaj\u00fa v\u00fdplatu v\u00a0kub\u00e1nskych pes\u00e1ch a\u00a0s\u00a0t\u00fdmi m\u00f4\u017eu nakupova\u0165 len v\u00a0obchodoch s\u00a0ve\u013emi obmedzen\u00fdm v\u00fdberom. Valuty sa v\u0161ak v\u00a0Havane daj\u00fa \u013eahko z\u00edska\u0165 od cudzincov. Dohadzova\u010di priv\u00e1tov a\u00a0re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00ed v\u00e1s oslovia hne\u010f po vyst\u00fapen\u00ed z\u00a0autobusu a\u00a0kde nepochod\u00ed jeden, sk\u00fasia to inde \u010fal\u0161\u00ed desiati. Bl\u00edzko budovy havansk\u00e9ho Capitolia na turistov dotieraj\u00fa vytrval\u00ed k\u0161eft\u00e1ri s\u00a0ponukou zaru\u010dene origin\u00e1lnych cig\u00e1r. Ich kump\u00e1ni zatia\u013e kontroluj\u00fa pohyb policajtov a\u00a0v\u010das upozor\u0148uj\u00fa na nebezpe\u010denstvo. Cigary sa tu pon\u00fakaj\u00fa na ka\u017edom kroku za ve\u013emi l\u00e1kav\u00fa cenu, ale v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou s\u00a0fal\u0161ovan\u00fdmi kontroln\u00fdmi n\u00e1lepkami a\u00a0slab\u0161ej kvality. Ak si ich zak\u00fapite, na hraniciach m\u00f4\u017eete ma\u0165 probl\u00e9m. Mimochodom, havansk\u00e9 El Capitolio \u2013 dnes s\u00eddlo Kub\u00e1nskej akad\u00e9mie vied \u2013 sa \u010dasto uv\u00e1dza ako k\u00f3pia washingtonsk\u00e9ho Capitolu, ale pod\u013ea architekta Rayneriho je kupola in\u0161pirovan\u00e1 par\u00ed\u017eskym Panth\u00e9onom.<\/p>\n<p>Origin\u00e1lne cigary za lep\u0161iu cenu sa daj\u00fa naozaj zohna\u0165, ale v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou len v\u00a0priamom okol\u00ed tov\u00e1rn\u00ed na cigary. Robotn\u00edci toti\u017e okrem platu dost\u00e1vaj\u00fa raz za \u010das aj jednu \u0161katu\u013eu cig\u00e1r, ktor\u00e9 sa potom \u010dasto sna\u017eia preda\u0165 za br\u00e1nami fabriky turistom. Ak v\u00e1m nie je \u013e\u00fato obetova\u0165 zna\u010dkov\u00e9 tenisky, alebo tri\u010dko, sk\u00faste ich pon\u00faknu\u0165 namiesto pe\u0148az\u00ed. Pre dom\u00e1cich maj\u00fa rovnak\u00fa cenu ako mali u\u00a0n\u00e1s v\u00a0\u010dasoch komunizmu. S\u00a0ve\u013ek\u00fdm nad\u0161en\u00edm a\u00a0v\u010fakou prijm\u00fa dom\u00e1ci aj ak\u00fako\u013evek kozmetiku \u010di bi\u017eut\u00e9riu, venovan\u00fa ako dar\u010dek \u010di odmenu za pohostinnos\u0165.<\/p>\n<p><strong>V\u00e1\u0161ne v\u00a0tane\u010dn\u00fdch rytmoch a\u00a0\u201e\u010dokol\u00e1dov\u00e9\u201c poku\u0161enia<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Ak str\u00e1vite v\u00a0Havane noc, nemali by tam ch\u00fdba\u0165 rytmy latinskoamerickej hudby, \u010di u\u017e si ich vychutn\u00e1te ako pas\u00edvni pozorovatelia, alebo akt\u00edvni tane\u010dn\u00edci. Pozorova\u0165 v\u00a0klube dom\u00e1cich, ktor\u00ed sa zv\u0155taj\u00fa v\u00a0rytme rumby a\u00a0salsy prakticky hne\u010f ako sa postavia na nohy, je pre fan\u00fa\u0161ika \u201elatino\u201c hudby a\u00a0tanca nezabudnute\u013en\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitok. Tancuje sa v\u0161ade, v\u00a0baroch, na ulici, v\u00a0parku. V\u00a0p\u00e1re, alebo len tak osamote \u2013 pre rados\u0165 z\u00a0chv\u00edle. Pre nezadan\u00fdch mu\u017eov m\u00e1me jednu dobr\u00fa spr\u00e1vu. Kuba je jednou z\u00a0m\u00e1la kraj\u00edn, kde s\u00fa na\u0161inci pre dom\u00e1ce \u017eeny exotick\u00ed. Rad\u0161ej sa v\u0161ak nezam\u00fd\u0161\u013eajte nad t\u00fdm, \u010di je to kv\u00f4li v\u00fdzoru, alebo kv\u00f4li statusu potenci\u00e1lnej letenky z\u00a0Kuby:). Nevad\u00ed, ak ste v\u00a0tanci trochu dreven\u00ed, pokia\u013e sa partnerke p\u00e1\u010dite, d\u00e1 v\u00e1m to najavo vzru\u0161uj\u00facimi pohybmi svojho pekne tvarovan\u00e9ho pozadia. Samozrejme, telo na telo. Ak pozvete kub\u00e1nske diev\u010da na z\u00e1bavu, o\u010dak\u00e1va sa, \u017ee a\u017e do r\u00e1na budete plati\u0165 bez reptania v\u0161etky drah\u00e9 drinky, ktor\u00e9 si objedn\u00e1. A\u00a0vedzte, \u017ee ka\u017ed\u00e1 t\u00fato pr\u00edle\u017eitos\u0165 vyu\u017eije \u010faleko nad va\u0161e predstavy:).<\/p>\n<p><strong>Rum, kokteil alebo pivo?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Mnoh\u00ed turisti pl\u00e1nuj\u00fa da\u0165 si drink v\u00a0presl\u00e1venom bare Bodeguita del Medio, ktor\u00fd hojne nav\u0161tevoval Hemingway a\u00a0\u010fal\u0161ie osobnosti. Ke\u010f v\u0161ak uvid\u00edte, ko\u013eko turistov sa v\u00a0mal\u00fdch priestoroch tla\u010d\u00ed, asi si rovnako ako my n\u00e1jdete rad\u0161ej in\u00fd bar na osvie\u017eenie kvalitn\u00fdm mojitom. Bary v\u00a0starom centre prekvapia vy\u0161\u0161\u00edmi cenami, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa pribli\u017ene rovnak\u00e9 ako v\u00a0eur\u00f3pskom priemere.<\/p>\n<p>Najob\u013e\u00fabenej\u0161ie zna\u010dky piva s\u00fa Bucanero a\u00a0Crystal. Ak by ste v\u0161ak mali chu\u0165 na \u201e\u010dap\u00e1ka\u201c, budete sa musie\u0165 uskromni\u0165 s\u00a0plechovkou, lebo bary s\u00a0p\u00edpou s\u00fa na celom ostrove sk\u00f4r v\u00fdnimo\u010dn\u00e9, ne\u017e be\u017en\u00e9. My sme mali \u0161\u0165astie a\u00a0prv\u00e9ho Bucanera v\u00a0plechovke sme neochutnali v\u00a0bare, ale v\u00a0typickom obydl\u00ed \u201ebe\u017en\u00fdch\u201c Kub\u00e1ncov v\u00a0downtowne. Pozvanie na n\u00e1v\u0161tevu vzniklo v\u010faka ve\u013ekej zhode okolnost\u00ed. Cez de\u0148 som sa pri potulk\u00e1ch ulicami downtownu nepozorovane sna\u017eil odfoti\u0165 mlad\u00e9ho Kub\u00e1nca s\u00a0dredmi na hlave, ktor\u00fd vyzeral z\u00a0okna so svoj\u00edm koc\u00farom. Ako sa uk\u00e1zalo ve\u010der, a\u017e tak\u00fd nen\u00e1padn\u00fd som nebol. Ke\u010f sme sa vracali k\u00a0na\u0161ej \u201eCase\u201c, za\u010dul som za chrbtom niekoho vola\u0165 \u201eHej Mistr Fotograf! Hej!\u201c Oto\u010dil som sa a\u00a0ku mne kr\u00e1\u010dal chlap\u00edk z\u00a0fotografie. L\u00e1manou angli\u010dtinou mi vysvetlil, \u017ee si ma v\u0161imol pri foten\u00ed. Hne\u010f som mu aj uk\u00e1zal jeho fotografiu. Bol nad\u0161en\u00fd a\u00a0na na\u0161e prekvapenie n\u00e1s pozval k\u00a0sebe domov. Vedeli sme, \u017ee Kub\u00e1nci nesm\u00fa turistov poz\u00fdva\u0165 k\u00a0sebe domov, a\u00a0preto sme bez v\u00e1hania prijali. N\u00e1\u0161 hostite\u013e sa predstavil ako Leonardo. Za chv\u00ed\u013eu sme u\u017e mohli na vlastn\u00e9 o\u010di vidie\u0165, ako vyzer\u00e1 viacgenera\u010dn\u00fd byt kub\u00e1nskej rodiny. Cel\u00fd pr\u00edbytok tvorili dve izby, kuchynsk\u00fd k\u00fat a\u00a0k\u00fape\u013e\u0148a. Izba na pr\u00edzem\u00ed bola tak ako u\u00a0v\u00e4\u010d\u0161iny susedov po\u010das d\u0148a a\u00a0ve\u010dera ob\u00fdva\u010dkou, na noc sa menila na sp\u00e1l\u0148u pre star\u00fdch rodi\u010dov. Po \u00fazkych kamenn\u00fdch schod\u00edkoch sme vy\u0161li na horn\u00e9 poschodie, ktor\u00e9 v\u00a0malom priestore zlu\u010dovalo kuchynsk\u00fd k\u00fat a\u00a0dve z\u00e1vesom oddelen\u00e9 sp\u00e1lne. Leonardo sa o\u00a0tento priestor delil so sestrou a\u00a0jej man\u017eelom, deti spali dole so star\u00fdmi rodi\u010dmi. Prekvapila ma pr\u00edtomnos\u0165 stolov\u00e9ho po\u010d\u00edta\u010da a\u00a0repros\u00fastavy. Leonardova sestra mala miesto na ministerstve a\u00a0aj Leonardo bol, zd\u00e1 sa, v\u00a0k\u0161eftovan\u00ed ve\u013emi zbehl\u00fd, tak\u017ee zabezpe\u010dil do dom\u00e1cnosti tak\u00e9to vymo\u017eenosti. Nepriamo nazna\u010dil, \u017ee obchoduje s\u00a0\u010d\u00edm sa d\u00e1. Pri plechovke Bucanera sme sa dokonca do\u010dkali jeho amat\u00e9rskeho beatboxov\u00e9ho v\u00fdstupu.<\/p>\n<p>Dom\u00e1ci v\u00a0Havane s\u00fa inak ve\u013emi priate\u013esk\u00ed a\u00a0nem\u00f4\u017eem tvrdi\u0165, \u017ee v\u017edy chc\u00fa len vytiahnu\u0165 nejak\u00e9 peniaze z\u00a0turistu. Pri prieskume \u0161tvrt\u00ed \u010falej od centra mesta nie je zriedkav\u00e9 pozvanie na rum. \u0160tudenti jazykov\u00fdch \u0161k\u00f4l radi poradia smer a\u00a0pokonverzuj\u00fa, aby si precvi\u010dili nau\u010den\u00fa angli\u010dtinu. Konverz\u00e1cia najm\u00e4 so star\u0161\u00edmi obyvate\u013emi je hne\u010f \u017eiv\u0161ia, ke\u010f zistia, \u017ee ste \u201e\u010cechoslov\u00e1k\u201c. Mnoh\u00ed v\u00a0b\u00fdvalom \u010ceskoslovensku \u0161tudovali, alebo spoznali na\u0161ich \u013eud\u00ed na Kube, kam \u010cesi a\u00a0Slov\u00e1ci chodili za b\u00fdval\u00e9ho re\u017eimu v\u00a0hojn\u00fdch po\u010dtoch vymie\u0148a\u0165 si s\u00a0Kub\u00e1ncami poznatky pre svetlej\u0161ie zajtraj\u0161ky.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Dom\u00e1ce re\u0161taur\u00e1cie<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Ako odmenu za \u201eslu\u017eby sprievodcu\u201c som dohodol s\u00a0na\u0161\u00edm sprievodcom Angelom pozvanie na obed. Prov\u00edzia nepust\u00ed, a\u00a0tak sme skon\u010dili v\u00a0s\u00fakromnej dom\u00e1cej re\u0161taur\u00e1cii, v takzvanom paladare. Na Kube a\u00a0v\u00a0Havane m\u00e1te na v\u00fdber bu\u010f \u0161t\u00e1tne re\u0161taur\u00e1cie alebo \u201epaladares\u201c, rodinn\u00e9 s\u00fakromn\u00e9 podniky, ktor\u00e9 \u0161t\u00e1t povolil za\u010diatkom 90. rokov ako jeden z\u00a0krokov na zmiernenie kr\u00edzy. Paladares v\u0161ak museli sp\u013a\u0148a\u0165 pr\u00edsne normy, ktor\u00e9 sa rokmi viac razy upravovali. Medzi zamestnancami musia by\u0165 minim\u00e1lne 2 \u010dlenovia rodiny a\u00a0po\u010det stoli\u010diek pre host\u00ed st\u00e1le nesmie prekro\u010di\u0165 12. Aj ponuka jedla bola a\u00a0je obmedzovan\u00e1. Mnoh\u00ed prev\u00e1dzkovatelia musia, samozrejme, poru\u0161ova\u0165 pravidl\u00e1, aby pre\u017eili. Na\u0161a dom\u00e1ca \u201ejed\u00e1le\u0148\u201c sa nach\u00e1dzala zastr\u010den\u00e1 v\u00a0skrytej uli\u010dke v\u00a0jednom zo zachovalej\u0161\u00edch obytn\u00fdch domov v\u00a0z\u00e1stavbe. V\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou s\u00fa tieto re\u0161taur\u00e1cie vytvoren\u00e9 v\u00a0pr\u00edzem\u00ed domu majite\u013eov. Na zazvonenie na zvon\u010dek n\u00e1m pri\u0161iel otvori\u0165 majite\u013e. Voviedol n\u00e1s do miestnosti, kde boli len tri stoly, ka\u017ed\u00fd so \u0161tyrmi stoli\u010dkami. Ceny v\u00a0menu boli dos\u0165 vysok\u00e9, ale u\u017e sa nedalo c\u00favnu\u0165, tak sme si nechali odporu\u010di\u0165 mixovan\u00fa ochutn\u00e1vku typick\u00fdch kub\u00e1nskych jed\u00e1l. V\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina chodov bola z\u00a0ry\u017ee, fazule, m\u00faky a\u00a0kuracieho m\u00e4sa. Samozrejme, nech\u00fdbali ani sma\u017een\u00e9 ban\u00e1ny. Aj ke\u010f jedl\u00e1 vyzerali na poh\u013ead jednoducho, boli ve\u013emi chutn\u00e9 a\u00a0exotick\u00e9. V\u00a0\u0161t\u00e1tnych re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00e1ch v\u00a0centre by ste mnoh\u00e9 nena\u0161li. Ak m\u00e1te ni\u017e\u0161\u00ed rozpo\u010det, pre dom\u00e1cich aj turistov pon\u00fakaj\u00fa v\u00a0pouli\u010dn\u00fdch st\u00e1nkoch a\u00a0jed\u00e1l\u0148ach r\u00f4zne formy r\u00fdchleho ob\u010derstvenia, z\u00a0ktor\u00e9ho sa asi najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161ej ob\u013eube te\u0161ia k\u00fasky pizze a\u00a0skvel\u00e9 dezerty.<\/p>\n<p>Pokia\u013e sa zdr\u017e\u00edte v\u00a0Havane dlh\u0161ie a\u00a0chcete si jedlo pripravi\u0165 sami, dobrou vo\u013ebou najm\u00e4 pre vegetari\u00e1nov m\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 n\u00e1v\u0161teva agromercados \u2013 trhov\u00edsk s\u00a0bohatou a\u00a0farebnou ponukou ovocia a\u00a0zeleniny.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Dvojse\u010dn\u00fd me\u010d zmien<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Odchod Fidela Castra z\u00a0akt\u00edvnej politiky roz\u0161\u00edril \u0161k\u00e1ru pootvoren\u00fdch dver\u00ed, cez ktor\u00e9 prin\u00e1\u0161a prievan na Kubu novoty a\u00a0ostrov slobody sa men\u00ed na ostrov e\u0161te slobodnej\u0161\u00ed. Kto m\u00e1 peniaze a\u00a0\u010dist\u00fd k\u00e1drov\u00fd posudok, m\u00f4\u017ee cestova\u0165 ko\u013eko chce a\u00a0kam chce. Dovoz nov\u00fdch \u00e1ut je s\u00edce zak\u00e1zan\u00fd, ale jedno \u010di dvojro\u010dn\u00fdch modelov u\u017e br\u00e1zdia ulicie Havany tis\u00edce. V\u00e4\u010d\u0161ia otvorenos\u0165 svetu m\u00e1 v\u0161ak aj druh\u00fa str\u00e1nku. Je to pr\u00e1ve to vytr\u00e1canie starobyl\u00e9ho puncu mesta. Nov\u00e9 aut\u00e1 medzi americk\u00fdmi 60-ro\u010dn\u00fdmi veter\u00e1nmi, modern\u00e9 obchodn\u00e9 centr\u00e1, po\u010d\u00edta\u010de, mobily a\u00a0internet \u2013 to s\u00fa veci, ktor\u00e9 s\u00edce te\u0161ia samotn\u00fdch Kub\u00e1ncov, ale n\u00e1v\u0161tevn\u00edk-turista by ich tam rad\u0161ej nevidel. Lebo \u010daro Havany a\u00a0celej Kuby je pre n\u00e1v\u0161tevn\u00edkov pr\u00e1ve v\u00a0tom pocite, \u017ee sa vr\u00e1tite o\u00a050 rokov sp\u00e4\u0165 do \u017eiv\u00e9ho m\u00fazea, skanzenu doby, ktor\u00fa si aj my e\u0161te dobre pam\u00e4t\u00e1me.<\/p>\n<p>V\u00a0de\u0148 odchodu sme kr\u00e1\u010dali po sl\u00e1vnej pobre\u017enej promen\u00e1de Malec\u00f3n a\u00a0ve\u013ek\u00e9 vlny sa rozb\u00edjali o\u00a0skaly. Havana sa s\u00a0nami l\u00fa\u010dila prich\u00e1dzaj\u00facim hurik\u00e1nom. Za\u017eelal som si, aby bola pri mojej bud\u00facej n\u00e1v\u0161teve nezmenen\u00e1. Vietor zmien s\u00edce u\u017e f\u00faka, ale sn\u00e1\u010f z\u00a0neho bude len pr\u00edjemn\u00fd v\u00e1nok, a\u00a0nie hurik\u00e1n. Rad\u0161ej ale nev\u00e1hajte a\u00a0pl\u00e1nujte n\u00e1v\u0161tevu \u010d\u00edm sk\u00f4r;).<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Vietor zmien u\u017e f\u00faka, nev\u00e1hajte s n\u00e1v\u0161tevou Hey, my friend, want cigaras? Chicas? Ot\u00e1zky, ktor\u00fdmi Havana priv\u00edta v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inu turistov, najm\u00e4 ak za\u010d\u00ednate v\u00fdlet v centre mesta. Na chrb\u00e1t mal\u00fd ruksak, na noh\u00e1ch kvalitn\u00e1 turtistick\u00e1 obuv a vyrazili sme. My sme spozn\u00e1vanie presl\u00e1venej metropoly za\u010dali na Havanskej univerzite v \u0161tvrti Vedado. Tu sa na n\u00e1s zdanlivo [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":3336,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[13],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3335","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-real-estate","eq-blocks"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3335","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/7"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3335"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3335\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":87430,"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3335\/revisions\/87430"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3336"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3335"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3335"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3335"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}