{"id":65097,"date":"2015-04-13T08:07:07","date_gmt":"2015-04-13T06:07:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/?p=65097"},"modified":"2015-04-13T08:07:07","modified_gmt":"2015-04-13T06:07:07","slug":"strateny-svet-gaucov","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/2015\/04\/strateny-svet-gaucov\/","title":{"rendered":"Straten\u00fd svet gau\u010dov"},"content":{"rendered":"

Ur\u010dite aj vy pozn\u00e1te ten pocit, ke\u010f potrebujete vypadn\u00fa\u0165 z\u00a0mesta, na chv\u00ed\u013eu zabudn\u00fa\u0165 na hluk \u00e1ut, preplnen\u00e9 ulice, e\u0161te pln\u0161ie obchodn\u00e9 centr\u00e1, vravu \u013eud\u00ed, stres a\u00a0ve\u010dn\u00e9 nah\u00e1\u0148anie sa za nie\u010d\u00edm. Vtedy m\u00e1 \u010dlovek pocit, \u017ee mus\u00ed \u00eds\u0165 nutne pre\u010d, do h\u00f4r, na vidiek, proste smer k\u013eud a pohoda. Nieko\u013eko rokov som \u017eila v\u00a0Buenos Aires a\u00a0aj toto mesto je po prvotnom nad\u0161en\u00ed ve\u013emi podobn\u00e9 ka\u017ed\u00e9mu nieko\u013ekomili\u00f3nov\u00e9mu mestu: ve\u013ea \u013eud\u00ed, ve\u013ea smogu, ve\u013ea hluku…ve\u013ea v\u0161etk\u00e9ho. Raz za \u010das si potrebujete \u00eds\u0165 vyvetra\u0165 hlavu a\u00a0ke\u010f pr\u00edde n\u00e1hodou pred\u013a\u017een\u00fd v\u00edkend, niet lep\u0161ej pr\u00edle\u017eitosti. Ak sa rozhodnete \u00eds\u0165 autom, treba podst\u00fapi\u0165 tort\u00faru \u0161ialen\u00fdch argent\u00ednskych ciest so \u0161ialen\u00fdmi argent\u00ednskymi vodi\u010dmi. Ak sa v\u0161ak rozhodnete \u00eds\u0165 autobusom, pre\u017eijete si len kr\u00e1tkodobej\u0161iu tort\u00faru hlavnej autobusovej stanice Retiro, kde s\u00a0vami bude \u010daka\u0165 \u010fal\u0161\u00edch sn\u00e1\u010f desa\u0165 tis\u00edc \u013eud\u00ed a\u00a0poti\u0165 sa. Ale ak to pre\u017eijete, \u010dak\u00e1 v\u00e1s sladk\u00e1 odmena. Autobusy s\u00fa ve\u013emi pr\u00edjemn\u00e9, so \u0161irok\u00fdmi skl\u00e1pac\u00edmi sedadlami, kde sa d\u00e1 pohodlne zdriemnu\u0165 a\u00a0e\u0161te k\u00a0tomu dostanete nie\u010do sladk\u00e9 pod zub pribalen\u00e9 v\u00a0malom papierovom vrec\u00fa\u0161ku. Asi po hodinke sa dostanete z\u00a0mesta a\u00a0potom u\u017e za\u010d\u00edna to, po \u010dom ste t\u00fa\u017eili. K\u013eud vidieka.<\/p>\n

\"dedinka<\/p>\n

Dedinka San Antonio de Areco<\/p>\n

Za provinciami mesta Buenos Aires u\u017e za\u010d\u00edna in\u00e1 krajina, zvan\u00e1 la Pampa. \u0160iroko \u010faleko nebudete vidie\u0165 ni\u010d in\u00e9, len tr\u00e1vnat\u00e9 pl\u00e1ne, na nich sa pas\u00face kravy alebo kone. Sem tam nejak\u00fd strom, mo\u017eno dva. A\u00a0e\u0161te to neskonale modr\u00e9 nebo. P\u00f4jdete hodinku, dve…a st\u00e1le to ist\u00e9. Pastviny, kravy, kone a\u00a0modr\u00e9 nebo. Zdriemnete si. Zobud\u00edte sa po \u010fal\u0161ej hodinke a\u00a0znova kravy, pastivny a\u00a0modr\u00e9 nebo. Pre\u010d\u00edtate si kni\u017eku, zjete obsah papierov\u00e9ho vrec\u00fa\u0161ka a\u00a0scen\u00e1r pri poh\u013eade von z\u00a0okna sa nemen\u00ed. To je argent\u00ednsky vidiek na najbli\u017e\u0161\u00edch 6 hod\u00edn cesty hociktor\u00fdm smerom z\u00a0Buenos Aires.<\/p>\n

Tento vidiek v\u0161ak v\u00a0sebe skr\u00fdva ur\u010dit\u00fd, pre n\u00e1s eur\u00f3panov nezn\u00e1my svet. Nen\u00e1jdete tam nijak\u00e9 malebn\u00e9 dedinky v\u00a0\u00fadol\u00ed, s\u00a0kostol\u00edkom a dreveni\u010dkami ako to b\u00fdva zvykom u\u00a0n\u00e1s. \u017diadne lesy, l\u00faky, hornat\u00e9 plochy. Sk\u00f4r v\u00e1s zaraz\u00ed nemalebnos\u0165 t\u00fdch dediniek, t\u00falav\u00e9 psy a\u00a0o\u0161arpan\u00e9 budovy postaven\u00e9 z\u00a0kadejak\u00fdch teh\u00e1l. Nedajte sa v\u0161ak odradi\u0165. Prav\u00fd vidiek sa nach\u00e1dza na mieste zvanom \u201eestancia\u201c, po na\u0161om ran\u010d alebo farma. Tie sa nach\u00e1dzaj\u00fa nieko\u013eko desiatok kilometrov za o\u0161arpan\u00fdmi dedinami. A\u00a0tam n\u00e1jdete to, \u010do pri hektickom \u017eivote v\u00a0meste raz za \u010das potrebujete. K\u013eud, l\u00e1skavo\u0165, pr\u00edrodu a\u00a0more priestoru.<\/p>\n

Na estanci\u00e1ch nikdy nevid\u00edte, kde je ich koniec a\u00a0ich za\u010diatok. Niekedy s\u00fa to stovky a\u00a0tis\u00edcky hekt\u00e1rov pastv\u00edn, na ktor\u00fdch sa preh\u00e1\u0148aj\u00fa gau\u010dovia.<\/p>\n

Ke\u010f sa v\u00a0Ju\u017enej Amerike povie slovo \u201egau\u010do\u201c, hne\u010f ka\u017ed\u00fd vie o\u00a0koho sa jedn\u00e1. Ke\u010f som toto slovo po\u010dula prv\u00fd kr\u00e1t ja, predstavila som si bruchat\u00e9ho chlapa v\u00a0trenk\u00e1ch a\u00a0tielku, vyva\u013euj\u00faceho sa na gau\u010di a\u00a0prep\u00ednaj\u00faceho kan\u00e1ly na dia\u013ekovom ovl\u00e1da\u010di. Chv\u00ed\u013eu som preto nech\u00e1pala, pre\u010do o\u00a0gau\u010dovi Juhoameri\u010dania hovoria s\u00a0ne\u017enou d\u00e1vkou nostalgie, ba niekedy a\u017e hrdosti.<\/p>\n

\"gau\u010dovia<\/p>\n

Gau\u010dovia u\u017e od mala<\/p>\n

Gau\u010dovia s\u00fa pre nich spojenie s\u00a0hist\u00f3riou, s\u00a0ich identitou, s\u00a0pr\u00edrodou a\u00a0akousi \u010distou mor\u00e1lkou. V\u00a0star\u00fdch \u010dasoch \u017eili gau\u010dovia polo-nom\u00e1dskym \u017eivotom, nah\u00e1\u0148aj\u00fac a\u00a0pas\u00fac st\u00e1da dobytka po nekone\u010dn\u00fdch stepiach la Pampy, Patag\u00f3nie a\u00a0v\u00a0oblastiach Gran Chaca. Pojem gau\u010do, po \u0161panielky el gaucho, poznaj\u00fa nielen v\u00a0Argent\u00edne, ale aj na juhu \u010cile, v\u00a0Paraguaji, Uruguaji a\u00a0dokonca aj v\u00a0ju\u017enej \u010dasti Braz\u00edlie. Boli to jednoduch\u00ed pastieri, preh\u00e1\u0148aj\u00faci sa na svojich ko\u0148och na pastvin\u00e1ch, \u017eij\u00faci jednoduch\u00fdm \u017eivotom v\u00a0\u00fazkom spojen\u00ed s\u00a0pr\u00edrodou a\u00a0svojimi zvieratami. P\u00e1sli dobytok pre m\u00e4so a\u00a0ko\u017eu, oble\u010den\u00ed do \u0161irok\u00fdch nohav\u00edc s\u00a0ko\u017eenn\u00fdmi vyb\u00edjan\u00fdmi opaskami, cez plecia prehoden\u00e9 pon\u010do a\u00a0na hlave nosili klob\u00fak alebo baretku.<\/p>\n

\"jarmok<\/p>\n

Jarmok v Tapalque<\/p>\n

Dnes je tento sladk\u00fd slobodn\u00fd \u017eivot u\u017e len m\u00fdtom, akousi legendou, o\u00a0ktorej sa p\u00ed\u0161u b\u00e1sne. Jednu z\u00a0najzn\u00e1mej\u0161\u00edch gau\u010dovsk\u00fdch bal\u00e1d nap\u00edsal Jos\u00e9 Hernand\u00e9z, sl\u00e1vny argent\u00ednsky b\u00e1snik a\u00a0vedia ju recitova\u0165 od det\u00ed po dospel\u00fdch v\u0161etci Argent\u00edn\u010dania. Ako bolo pre n\u00e1s povinn\u00e9 nau\u010di\u0165 sa \u201eMor ho\u201c, pre argent\u00edn\u010danov je\u00a0 \u201eMart\u00edn Fierro\u201c z\u00e1kladom v\u0161eobecn\u00e9ho liter\u00e1rneho vzdelania. Opisuje kr\u00e1su tr\u00e1vnat\u00fdch step\u00ed, krehkos\u0165 jednoduch\u00e9ho a\u00a0nez\u00e1visl\u00e9ho \u017eivota oby\u010dajn\u00e9ho gau\u010da, ktor\u00e9mu boli jeho pr\u00e1va odobrat\u00e9 po vyhl\u00e1sen\u00ed argent\u00ednskej nez\u00e1vislosti. P\u00f4da sa za\u010dala skupova\u0165, rozde\u013eova\u0165 a\u00a0gau\u010dovia boli n\u00faten\u00ed \u00eds\u0165 bojova\u0165 do l\u00e9gi\u00ed proti indi\u00e1nom alebo pracova\u0165 pre statk\u00e1rov. V\u00a0na\u0161om storo\u010d\u00ed u\u017e t\u00edto semi-nom\u00e1dski pastieri neexistuj\u00fa, zostala po nich len t\u00e1 nostalgia za d\u00e1vnymi \u010dasmi.<\/p>\n

\"kontrola<\/p>\n

Kontrola dobytka na estancii La Isolina<\/p>\n

Teraj\u0161\u00ed gau\u010dovia s\u00fa in\u00ed. Slobodu c\u00edtia asi akur\u00e1t tak pri cvale na koni. Pracuj\u00fa pre majite\u013eov pozemkov, staraj\u00fa sa o\u00a0ich domy, dobytok, kone, pastviny a\u00a0na statkoch robia cel\u00e9 ich rodiny. Ve\u013ea kr\u00e1t som za\u017eila, \u017ee v\u00a0kuchyni pracovali dc\u00e9ry, pri dobytku synovia, u\u010diac sa od svojich otcov tajomstv\u00e1 gau\u010dovsk\u00e9ho remesla a\u00a0pri tom niektor\u00ed mali ledva 13 rokov. Na koni jazdia od veku 2 rokov a\u00a0ide im to sn\u00e1\u010f lep\u0161ie ako chodi\u0165 po svojich. Svojich p\u00e1nov volaj\u00fa \u201epatr\u00f3n\u201c a\u00a0ke\u010f som sa im do cesty priplietla ja, bola som \u201ese\u0148orita\u201c. S\u00fa pokojn\u00ed, m\u013akvi, v\u00e1\u017eni a\u00a0na prv\u00ed poh\u013ead pozeraj\u00fa do sk\u00f4r do zeme ako v\u00e1m do o\u010d\u00ed. Na ot\u00e1zky odpovedaj\u00fa len \u00e1no, alebo nie. Av\u0161ak nesk\u00f4r, ke\u010f si sa s\u00a0vami podelia o\u00a0mate, siln\u00fd zelen\u00fd \u010daj, a\u00a0pon\u00faknu v\u00e1m kusisko hov\u00e4dzieho m\u00e4sa pe\u010den\u00e9ho na ohni, vedia sa aj usmia\u0165. S\u00fa to sk\u00f4r t\u00ed chudobn\u00ed gau\u010dovia, bez vlastn\u00e9ho majektu, s\u00a0tro\u0161ku tmav\u0161ou ple\u0165ou a\u00a0hust\u00fdmi tmav\u00fdmi vlasmi.<\/p>\n

\"La<\/p>\n

La Isolina<\/p>\n

Na druhej strane, biely gau\u010do, teda patr\u00f3n, alebo majite\u013e p\u00f4dy, b\u00fdva ve\u013emi v\u00fdre\u010dn\u00fd, smej\u00faci sa, v\u0161eved\u00faci. Za\u017eila som t\u00e1rajov a n\u00e1fukov, ale aj ve\u013emi mil\u00fdch a\u00a0seri\u00f3znych statk\u00e1rov, ktor\u00ed vedia meno ka\u017ed\u00e9ho kusu dobytka a\u00a0poznaj\u00fa ka\u017ed\u00e9 steblo tr\u00e1vy na svojich pozemkoch.<\/p>\n

Na estancii sa v\u017edy dobre najete, do s\u00fdta najazd\u00edte na ko\u0148och, odd\u00fdchnete si, nad\u00fdchate \u010derstv\u00e9ho vzduchu. Niekedy v\u00e1m vedia zorganizova\u0165 aj show gau\u010derskych zru\u010dnost\u00ed, \u010di spievania na gitare. Ja som v\u0161ak v\u017edy rad\u0161ej \u0161la, ak sa vyskytla mo\u017enos\u0165, pozrie\u0165 si prav\u00fd jarmok so v\u0161etk\u00fdmi s\u00fa\u0165a\u017eami, predajom popruhov, klob\u00fakov, \u0161atiek, baretiek zvan\u00fdch boina, no\u017e\u00edkov a\u00a0in\u00fdch potrebnost\u00ed. Tam vidno, ako sa m\u00f3da gau\u010dov zmenila. Pon\u010do nahradila ko\u0161e\u013ea, za p\u00e1som sa nosia kr\u00e1sne vyb\u00edjan\u00e9 no\u017ee a\u00a0oby\u010dajn\u00e9 handrov\u00e9 kapce nahradili ko\u017eenn\u00e9 \u010di\u017emy. Je to ako \u00eds\u0165 na folkl\u00f3rne sl\u00e1vnosti do V\u00fdchodnej, len tu sa jazd\u00ed na ko\u0148och, pop\u00edja mate, a\u00a0miesto fujary po\u010du\u0165 kr\u00e1sne balady rozpr\u00e1van\u00e9 v\u00a0rytme gitary. Je to star\u00fd gau\u010dersky popevn\u00fd \u0161t\u00fdl zvan\u00fd \u201epayada\u201c, nie\u010do ako recitovanie v\u00a0rytme gitary.<\/p>\n

\"La<\/p>\n

La Pampa z autobusu<\/p>\n

V\u00edkend prelet\u00ed r\u00fdchlo, ako vietor vo va\u0161ich vlasoch, ke\u010f cv\u00e1late na koni po nekone\u010dn\u00fdch pastvin\u00e1ch, popri dobytku do z\u00e1padu slnka. Mlad\u00fd gau\u010do v\u00e1m prichyt\u00ed ko\u0148a, k\u00fdm z\u00a0neho zosad\u00e1te a\u00a0vy viete, \u017ee sa t\u00e1 rozpr\u00e1vka o\u00a0kr\u00e1snom argent\u00ednskom vidieku pomaly kon\u010d\u00ed. Vtedy sa m\u00e1te chu\u0165 vyka\u0161\u013ea\u0165 na cel\u00fd svet a\u00a0\u00eds\u0165 ok\u00fasi\u0165 \u017eivot sp\u00e4t\u00fd s\u00a0pr\u00edrodou, tak ako ho \u017eil hrdina Hernand\u00e9zov\u00fdch b\u00e1sn\u00ed Mart\u00edn Fierro. Da\u0165 si na hlavu boinu, za p\u00e1s bl\u00fdskav\u00fd no\u017e\u00edk a\u00a0da\u0165 sa s\u00a0vetrom znova o\u00a0preteky pri na\u010d\u00favan\u00ed tr\u00e1vnat\u00fdch step\u00ed argent\u00ednskej la Pampy.<\/p>\n

Zostali mi na to v\u0161etko kr\u00e1sne spomienky. Spom\u00ednam si na Edivalda, \u010d\u00edlskeho gau\u010da \u017eij\u00faceho na estancii Farall\u00f3n Negro v\u00a0Patag\u00f3nii, ktor\u00fd ma ako prv\u00fd u\u010dil jazdi\u0165 na koni a\u00a0brodi\u0165 sa riekou. Spom\u00ednam si na Gabriela, ktor\u00fd zanechal \u017eivot v\u00a0Buenos Aires, teraz \u0161\u013eacht\u00ed kone v\u00a0okol\u00ed Tandilu a\u00a0 nau\u010dil ma jazdi\u0165 na koni bez sedla. Spom\u00ednam si na neuverite\u013en\u00fd pr\u00edbeh l\u00e1sky mlad\u00e9ho gau\u010da Fernanda, ktor\u00fd n\u00e1hodou posielal smsku kamar\u00e1tovi a\u00a0dostala ju omylom Laura, \u017eij\u00faca asi 1500 km \u010faleko. Z\u00a0jednej smsky sa vyvinulo man\u017eelstvo a\u00a0teraz obaja pom\u00e1haj\u00fa na estancii pri San Antoniu de Areco, dve hodiny od Buenos Aires. S\u00a0nimi som prv\u00fd kr\u00e1t pohnala ko\u0148a do trysku a\u00a0tam sa mi zdalo, \u017ee zastaneme a\u017e na konci sveta.<\/p>\n

\"mate<\/p>\n

Mate sa pije po cel\u00fd de\u0148<\/p>\n

Nikdy nezabudnem na ten pocit \u00fa\u017easnej nekone\u010dnosti priestoru, na kr\u00e1su a\u00a0jednoduchos\u0165 tamoj\u0161ej pr\u00edrody a\u00a0l\u00e1skavos\u0165 \u013eud\u00ed \u017eij\u00facich v\u00a0spojen\u00ed s\u00a0\u0148ou. Pr\u00e1ve v\u00a0nich \u017eij\u00fa tie gau\u010dovsk\u00e9 balady, s\u00a0nimi som objavila n\u00e1dheru ich vidieka a\u00a0porozumela jej. D\u00fafam, \u017ee ju objav\u00edte aj vy, ke\u010f sa raz zat\u00falate za Buenos Aires, h\u013eadaj\u00fac straten\u00fd svet star\u00fdch gau\u010dov.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Ur\u010dite aj vy pozn\u00e1te ten pocit, ke\u010f potrebujete vypadn\u00fa\u0165 z\u00a0mesta, na chv\u00ed\u013eu zabudn\u00fa\u0165 na hluk \u00e1ut, preplnen\u00e9 ulice, e\u0161te pln\u0161ie obchodn\u00e9 centr\u00e1, vravu \u013eud\u00ed, stres a\u00a0ve\u010dn\u00e9 nah\u00e1\u0148anie sa za nie\u010d\u00edm. Vtedy m\u00e1 \u010dlovek pocit, \u017ee mus\u00ed \u00eds\u0165 nutne pre\u010d, do h\u00f4r, na vidiek, proste smer k\u013eud a pohoda. Nieko\u013eko rokov som \u017eila v\u00a0Buenos Aires a\u00a0aj toto mesto je po prvotnom nad\u0161en\u00ed ve\u013emi podobn\u00e9 ka\u017ed\u00e9mu nieko\u013ekomili\u00f3nov\u00e9mu mestu: ve\u013ea \u013eud\u00ed, ve\u013ea smogu, ve\u013ea hluku…ve\u013ea v\u0161etk\u00e9ho. Raz za \u010das si potrebujete \u00eds\u0165 vyvetra\u0165 hlavu a\u00a0ke\u010f pr\u00edde n\u00e1hodou pred\u013a\u017een\u00fd v\u00edkend, niet lep\u0161ej pr\u00edle\u017eitosti. Ak sa rozhodnete \u00eds\u0165 autom, treba podst\u00fapi\u0165 tort\u00faru \u0161ialen\u00fdch argent\u00ednskych ciest so \u0161ialen\u00fdmi argent\u00ednskymi vodi\u010dmi. Ak sa v\u0161ak rozhodnete \u00eds\u0165 autobusom, pre\u017eijete si len kr\u00e1tkodobej\u0161iu tort\u00faru hlavnej autobusovej stanice Retiro, kde s\u00a0vami bude \u010daka\u0165 \u010fal\u0161\u00edch sn\u00e1\u010f desa\u0165 tis\u00edc \u013eud\u00ed a\u00a0poti\u0165 sa. Ale ak to pre\u017eijete, \u010dak\u00e1 v\u00e1s sladk\u00e1 odmena. Autobusy s\u00fa ve\u013emi pr\u00edjemn\u00e9, so \u0161irok\u00fdmi skl\u00e1pac\u00edmi sedadlami, kde sa d\u00e1 pohodlne zdriemnu\u0165 a\u00a0e\u0161te k\u00a0tomu dostanete nie\u010do sladk\u00e9 pod zub pribalen\u00e9 v\u00a0malom papierovom vrec\u00fa\u0161ku. Asi po hodinke sa dostanete z\u00a0mesta a\u00a0potom u\u017e za\u010d\u00edna to, po \u010dom ste t\u00fa\u017eili. K\u013eud vidieka.<\/p>\n

\"na<\/p>\n

Na estancii pracuje cel\u00e1 gau\u010dova rodina<\/p>\n

Za provinciami mesta Buenos Aires u\u017e za\u010d\u00edna in\u00e1 krajina, zvan\u00e1 la Pampa. \u0160iroko \u010faleko nebudete vidie\u0165 ni\u010d in\u00e9, len tr\u00e1vnat\u00e9 pl\u00e1ne, na nich sa pas\u00face kravy alebo kone. Sem tam nejak\u00fd strom, mo\u017eno dva. A\u00a0e\u0161te to neskonale modr\u00e9 nebo. P\u00f4jdete hodinku, dve…a st\u00e1le to ist\u00e9. Pastviny, kravy, kone a\u00a0modr\u00e9 nebo. Zdriemnete si. Zobud\u00edte sa po \u010fal\u0161ej hodinke a\u00a0znova kravy, pastivny a\u00a0modr\u00e9 nebo. Pre\u010d\u00edtate si kni\u017eku, zjete obsah papierov\u00e9ho vrec\u00fa\u0161ka a\u00a0scen\u00e1r pri poh\u013eade von z\u00a0okna sa nemen\u00ed. To je argent\u00ednsky vidiek na najbli\u017e\u0161\u00edch 6 hod\u00edn cesty hociktor\u00fdm smerom z\u00a0Buenos Aires.<\/p>\n

Tento vidiek v\u0161ak v\u00a0sebe skr\u00fdva ur\u010dit\u00fd, pre n\u00e1s eur\u00f3panov nezn\u00e1my svet. Nen\u00e1jdete tam nijak\u00e9 malebn\u00e9 dedinky v\u00a0\u00fadol\u00ed, s\u00a0kostol\u00edkom a dreveni\u010dkami ako to b\u00fdva zvykom u\u00a0n\u00e1s. \u017diadne lesy, l\u00faky, hornat\u00e9 plochy. Sk\u00f4r v\u00e1s zaraz\u00ed nemalebnos\u0165 t\u00fdch dediniek, t\u00falav\u00e9 psy a\u00a0o\u0161arpan\u00e9 budovy postaven\u00e9 z\u00a0kadejak\u00fdch teh\u00e1l. Nedajte sa v\u0161ak odradi\u0165. Prav\u00fd vidiek sa nach\u00e1dza na mieste zvanom \u201eestancia\u201c, po na\u0161om ran\u010d alebo farma. Tie sa nach\u00e1dzaj\u00fa nieko\u013eko desiatok kilometrov za o\u0161arpan\u00fdmi dedinami. A\u00a0tam n\u00e1jdete to, \u010do pri hektickom \u017eivote v\u00a0meste raz za \u010das potrebujete. K\u013eud, l\u00e1skavo\u0165, pr\u00edrodu a\u00a0more priestoru.<\/p>\n

\"postruhy<\/p>\n

Postruhy a sedl\u00e1 na jarmoku v Tapalque<\/p>\n

Na estanci\u00e1ch nikdy nevid\u00edte, kde je ich koniec a\u00a0ich za\u010diatok. Niekedy s\u00fa to stovky a\u00a0tis\u00edcky hekt\u00e1rov pastv\u00edn, na ktor\u00fdch sa preh\u00e1\u0148aj\u00fa gau\u010dovia.<\/p>\n

Ke\u010f sa v\u00a0Ju\u017enej Amerike povie slovo \u201egau\u010do\u201c, hne\u010f ka\u017ed\u00fd vie o\u00a0koho sa jedn\u00e1. Ke\u010f som toto slovo po\u010dula prv\u00fd kr\u00e1t ja, predstavila som si bruchat\u00e9ho chlapa v\u00a0trenk\u00e1ch a\u00a0tielku, vyva\u013euj\u00faceho sa na gau\u010di a\u00a0prep\u00ednaj\u00faceho kan\u00e1ly na dia\u013ekovom ovl\u00e1da\u010di. Chv\u00ed\u013eu som preto nech\u00e1pala, pre\u010do o\u00a0gau\u010dovi Juhoameri\u010dania hovoria s\u00a0ne\u017enou d\u00e1vkou nostalgie, ba niekedy a\u017e hrdosti.<\/p>\n

Gau\u010dovia s\u00fa pre nich spojenie s\u00a0hist\u00f3riou, s\u00a0ich identitou, s\u00a0pr\u00edrodou a\u00a0akousi \u010distou mor\u00e1lkou. V\u00a0star\u00fdch \u010dasoch \u017eili gau\u010dovia polo-nom\u00e1dskym \u017eivotom, nah\u00e1\u0148aj\u00fac a\u00a0pas\u00fac st\u00e1da dobytka po nekone\u010dn\u00fdch stepiach la Pampy, Patag\u00f3nie a\u00a0v\u00a0oblastiach Gran Chaca. Pojem gau\u010do, po \u0161panielky el gaucho, poznaj\u00fa nielen v\u00a0Argent\u00edne, ale aj na juhu \u010cile, v\u00a0Paraguaji, Uruguaji a\u00a0dokonca aj v\u00a0ju\u017enej \u010dasti Braz\u00edlie. Boli to jednoduch\u00ed pastieri, preh\u00e1\u0148aj\u00faci sa na svojich ko\u0148och na pastvin\u00e1ch, \u017eij\u00faci jednoduch\u00fdm \u017eivotom v\u00a0\u00fazkom spojen\u00ed s\u00a0pr\u00edrodou a\u00a0svojimi zvieratami. P\u00e1sli dobytok pre m\u00e4so a\u00a0ko\u017eu, oble\u010den\u00ed do \u0161irok\u00fdch nohav\u00edc s\u00a0ko\u017eenn\u00fdmi vyb\u00edjan\u00fdmi opaskami, cez plecia prehoden\u00e9 pon\u010do a\u00a0na hlave nosili klob\u00fak alebo baretku.<\/p>\n

Dnes je tento sladk\u00fd slobodn\u00fd \u017eivot u\u017e len m\u00fdtom, akousi legendou, o\u00a0ktorej sa p\u00ed\u0161u b\u00e1sne. Jednu z\u00a0najzn\u00e1mej\u0161\u00edch gau\u010dovsk\u00fdch bal\u00e1d nap\u00edsal Jos\u00e9 Hernand\u00e9z, sl\u00e1vny argent\u00ednsky b\u00e1snik a\u00a0vedia ju recitova\u0165 od det\u00ed po dospel\u00fdch v\u0161etci Argent\u00edn\u010dania. Ako bolo pre n\u00e1s povinn\u00e9 nau\u010di\u0165 sa \u201eMor ho\u201c, pre argent\u00edn\u010danov je\u00a0 \u201eMart\u00edn Fierro\u201c z\u00e1kladom v\u0161eobecn\u00e9ho liter\u00e1rneho vzdelania. Opisuje kr\u00e1su tr\u00e1vnat\u00fdch step\u00ed, krehkos\u0165 jednoduch\u00e9ho a\u00a0nez\u00e1visl\u00e9ho \u017eivota oby\u010dajn\u00e9ho gau\u010da, ktor\u00e9mu boli jeho pr\u00e1va odobrat\u00e9 po vyhl\u00e1sen\u00ed argent\u00ednskej nez\u00e1vislosti. P\u00f4da sa za\u010dala skupova\u0165, rozde\u013eova\u0165 a\u00a0gau\u010dovia boli n\u00faten\u00ed \u00eds\u0165 bojova\u0165 do l\u00e9gi\u00ed proti indi\u00e1nom alebo pracova\u0165 pre statk\u00e1rov. V\u00a0na\u0161om storo\u010d\u00ed u\u017e t\u00edto semi-nom\u00e1dski pastieri neexistuj\u00fa, zostala po nich len t\u00e1 nostalgia za d\u00e1vnymi \u010dasmi.<\/p>\n

Teraj\u0161\u00ed gau\u010dovia s\u00fa in\u00ed. Slobodu c\u00edtia asi akur\u00e1t tak pri cvale na koni. Pracuj\u00fa pre majite\u013eov pozemkov, staraj\u00fa sa o\u00a0ich domy, dobytok, kone, pastviny a\u00a0na statkoch robia cel\u00e9 ich rodiny. Ve\u013ea kr\u00e1t som za\u017eila, \u017ee v\u00a0kuchyni pracovali dc\u00e9ry, pri dobytku synovia, u\u010diac sa od svojich otcov tajomstv\u00e1 gau\u010dovsk\u00e9ho remesla a\u00a0pri tom niektor\u00ed mali ledva 13 rokov. Na koni jazdia od veku 2 rokov a\u00a0ide im to sn\u00e1\u010f lep\u0161ie ako chodi\u0165 po svojich. Svojich p\u00e1nov volaj\u00fa \u201epatr\u00f3n\u201c a\u00a0ke\u010f som sa im do cesty priplietla ja, bola som \u201ese\u0148orita\u201c. S\u00fa pokojn\u00ed, m\u013akvi, v\u00e1\u017eni a\u00a0na prv\u00ed poh\u013ead pozeraj\u00fa do sk\u00f4r do zeme ako v\u00e1m do o\u010d\u00ed. Na ot\u00e1zky odpovedaj\u00fa len \u00e1no, alebo nie. Av\u0161ak nesk\u00f4r, ke\u010f si sa s\u00a0vami podelia o\u00a0mate, siln\u00fd zelen\u00fd \u010daj, a\u00a0pon\u00faknu v\u00e1m kusisko hov\u00e4dzieho m\u00e4sa pe\u010den\u00e9ho na ohni, vedia sa aj usmia\u0165. S\u00fa to sk\u00f4r t\u00ed chudobn\u00ed gau\u010dovia, bez vlastn\u00e9ho majektu, s\u00a0tro\u0161ku tmav\u0161ou ple\u0165ou a\u00a0hust\u00fdmi tmav\u00fdmi vlasmi.<\/p>\n

\"plach\u00fd<\/p>\n

Plach\u00fd poh\u013ead mlad\u00e9ho gau\u010da<\/p>\n

Na druhej strane, biely gau\u010do, teda patr\u00f3n, alebo majite\u013e p\u00f4dy, b\u00fdva ve\u013emi v\u00fdre\u010dn\u00fd, smej\u00faci sa, v\u0161eved\u00faci. Za\u017eila som t\u00e1rajov a n\u00e1fukov, ale aj ve\u013emi mil\u00fdch a\u00a0seri\u00f3znych statk\u00e1rov, ktor\u00ed vedia meno ka\u017ed\u00e9ho kusu dobytka a\u00a0poznaj\u00fa ka\u017ed\u00e9 steblo tr\u00e1vy na svojich pozemkoch.<\/p>\n

Na estancii sa v\u017edy dobre najete, do s\u00fdta najazd\u00edte na ko\u0148och, odd\u00fdchnete si, nad\u00fdchate \u010derstv\u00e9ho vzduchu. Niekedy v\u00e1m vedia zorganizova\u0165 aj show gau\u010derskych zru\u010dnost\u00ed, \u010di spievania na gitare. Ja som v\u0161ak v\u017edy rad\u0161ej \u0161la, ak sa vyskytla mo\u017enos\u0165, pozrie\u0165 si prav\u00fd jarmok so v\u0161etk\u00fdmi s\u00fa\u0165a\u017eami, predajom popruhov, klob\u00fakov, \u0161atiek, baretiek zvan\u00fdch boina, no\u017e\u00edkov a\u00a0in\u00fdch potrebnost\u00ed. Tam vidno, ako sa m\u00f3da gau\u010dov zmenila. Pon\u010do nahradila ko\u0161e\u013ea, za p\u00e1som sa nosia kr\u00e1sne vyb\u00edjan\u00e9 no\u017ee a\u00a0oby\u010dajn\u00e9 handrov\u00e9 kapce nahradili ko\u017eenn\u00e9 \u010di\u017emy. Je to ako \u00eds\u0165 na folkl\u00f3rne sl\u00e1vnosti do V\u00fdchodnej, len tu sa jazd\u00ed na ko\u0148och, pop\u00edja mate, a\u00a0miesto fujary po\u010du\u0165 kr\u00e1sne balady rozpr\u00e1van\u00e9 v\u00a0rytme gitary. Je to star\u00fd gau\u010dersky popevn\u00fd \u0161t\u00fdl zvan\u00fd \u201epayada\u201c, nie\u010do ako recitovanie v\u00a0rytme gitary.<\/p>\n

V\u00edkend prelet\u00ed r\u00fdchlo, ako vietor vo va\u0161ich vlasoch, ke\u010f cv\u00e1late na koni po nekone\u010dn\u00fdch pastvin\u00e1ch, popri dobytku do z\u00e1padu slnka. Mlad\u00fd gau\u010do v\u00e1m prichyt\u00ed ko\u0148a, k\u00fdm z\u00a0neho zosad\u00e1te a\u00a0vy viete, \u017ee sa t\u00e1 rozpr\u00e1vka o\u00a0kr\u00e1snom argent\u00ednskom vidieku pomaly kon\u010d\u00ed. Vtedy sa m\u00e1te chu\u0165 vyka\u0161\u013ea\u0165 na cel\u00fd svet a\u00a0\u00eds\u0165 ok\u00fasi\u0165 \u017eivot sp\u00e4t\u00fd s\u00a0pr\u00edrodou, tak ako ho \u017eil hrdina Hernand\u00e9zov\u00fdch b\u00e1sn\u00ed Mart\u00edn Fierro. Da\u0165 si na hlavu boinu, za p\u00e1s bl\u00fdskav\u00fd no\u017e\u00edk a\u00a0da\u0165 sa s\u00a0vetrom znova o\u00a0preteky pri na\u010d\u00favan\u00ed tr\u00e1vnat\u00fdch step\u00ed argent\u00ednskej la Pampy.<\/p>\n

\"postruhy<\/p>\n

Postruhy a sedl\u00e1 na jarmoku v Tapalque<\/p>\n

Zostali mi na to v\u0161etko kr\u00e1sne spomienky. Spom\u00ednam si na Edivalda, \u010d\u00edlskeho gau\u010da \u017eij\u00faceho na estancii Farall\u00f3n Negro v\u00a0Patag\u00f3nii, ktor\u00fd ma ako prv\u00fd u\u010dil jazdi\u0165 na koni a\u00a0brodi\u0165 sa riekou. Spom\u00ednam si na Gabriela, ktor\u00fd zanechal \u017eivot v\u00a0Buenos Aires, teraz \u0161\u013eacht\u00ed kone v\u00a0okol\u00ed Tandilu a\u00a0 nau\u010dil ma jazdi\u0165 na koni bez sedla. Spom\u00ednam si na neuverite\u013en\u00fd pr\u00edbeh l\u00e1sky mlad\u00e9ho gau\u010da Fernanda, ktor\u00fd n\u00e1hodou posielal smsku kamar\u00e1tovi a\u00a0dostala ju omylom Laura, \u017eij\u00faca asi 1500 km \u010faleko. Z\u00a0jednej smsky sa vyvinulo man\u017eelstvo a\u00a0teraz obaja pom\u00e1haj\u00fa na estancii pri San Antoniu de Areco, dve hodiny od Buenos Aires. S\u00a0nimi som prv\u00fd kr\u00e1t pohnala ko\u0148a do trysku a\u00a0tam sa mi zdalo, \u017ee zastaneme a\u017e na konci sveta.<\/p>\n

Nikdy nezabudnem na ten pocit \u00fa\u017easnej nekone\u010dnosti priestoru, na kr\u00e1su a\u00a0jednoduchos\u0165 tamoj\u0161ej pr\u00edrody a\u00a0l\u00e1skavos\u0165 \u013eud\u00ed \u017eij\u00facich v\u00a0spojen\u00ed s\u00a0\u0148ou. Pr\u00e1ve v\u00a0nich \u017eij\u00fa tie gau\u010dovsk\u00e9 balady, s\u00a0nimi som objavila n\u00e1dheru ich vidieka a\u00a0porozumela jej. D\u00fafam, \u017ee ju objav\u00edte aj vy, ke\u010f sa raz zat\u00falate za Buenos Aires, h\u013eadaj\u00fac straten\u00fd svet star\u00fdch gau\u010dov.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Text: Petra Ha\u0161ov\u00e1<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ur\u010dite aj vy pozn\u00e1te ten pocit, ke\u010f potrebujete vypadn\u00fa\u0165 z\u00a0mesta, na chv\u00ed\u013eu zabudn\u00fa\u0165 na hluk \u00e1ut, preplnen\u00e9 ulice, e\u0161te pln\u0161ie obchodn\u00e9 centr\u00e1, vravu \u013eud\u00ed, stres a\u00a0ve\u010dn\u00e9 nah\u00e1\u0148anie sa za nie\u010d\u00edm. Vtedy m\u00e1 \u010dlovek pocit, \u017ee mus\u00ed \u00eds\u0165 nutne pre\u010d, do h\u00f4r, na vidiek, proste smer k\u013eud a pohoda. Nieko\u013eko rokov som \u017eila v\u00a0Buenos Aires a\u00a0aj […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":65101,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[13,56],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-65097","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-real-estate","category-priroda","eq-blocks"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/65097","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/7"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=65097"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/65097\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":65115,"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/65097\/revisions\/65115"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/65101"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=65097"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=65097"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.slovaklinesmagazin.sk\/cms\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=65097"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}